Tuesday, February 10, 2009

surfs up dude.

Last week I did something I was pretty terrified to do, and I was more successful than I ever could have though.  No, I didn't sky dive. No, I'm still not courageous enough to bungee jump.  No, I didn't wrestle an alligator and win.  I surfed.  I know what you are thinking.  Sarah- why would you be terrified of surfing.  My response- because waves are really really scary.  I absolutely HATE being pulled under by waves, not knowing which way is up, being dumped over and over again, and not being able to breathe.  I am fairly sure this stems from when I was really little and got pulled under by same big waves in Puerto Rico.  (Ma or Aunt Jo, please correct me if I am wrong).  I seem to remember, (although it is entirely possible this is all a dream that has scared me for life) being pulled under by some waves near San Juan and my Mother, or someone close to me, ran in and helped me out of the water.  I am sure I swallowed a lot of sea water and as I said I am fairly certain this experience has stuck with me.  Anyhow- today I conquered my fears and went surfing, and let me tell you, I was a rock star.  

I took a day long surf lesson that a few of the hostels in the area recommended.  Not to mention, with a name like "Learn to Surf" it had to be god.  I went to Central Sydney to meet the pick up bus and at 9am these two VERY SURFER Aussie boys pull up in a 4 wheel drive car, and say to the 4 girls waiting that they are the pick up car.  Now normally, when you do any sort of day trip you get picked up in a marked van, or bus, or something official looking.  They check your name off a list, and off you go.  not this time.  The 4 of us look at each other as if "is this for real??"  and the 2 Aussie dudes and their dog, run off for coffee and we take off with one of them sitting in the trunk.  If I wasn't with 3 others I may have asked for some sort of ID to prove they were part of the surf company.  

Anyhow- We drove for about an hour and got to Cronulla (sp?) beach (south of the center of Sydney).  It was a VERY quiet beach, which is why they take us there.  I can't imagine trying to learn to surf on Bondi or Manly Beach since these beaches are ALWAYS wicked crowded. Once on the beach we learned how to paddle and stand on the board while still on land, and then off we went.  the first couple of attempts were complete and utter failures.  I wiped out BIG TIME.  However once I caught my first wave (please keep in mind these were TINY waves) I was golden.  I caught wave, after wave, after wave.  I am not ashamed to say, that I think I was by far the best girl out there.  Actually, I was probably top 2 out of everyone out there that day.  (there were about 25 of us).  Who knew?? Me being able to surf??  Although, lets not get ahead of ourselves, we were using foam boards which makes things easier, but I cant wait to get out there again and see if I can stand and "rip" with no instructors around.

My arms were sore from paddling (it doesn't help I got a tetanus shot the day before which felt like a wicked Charlie horse)  and I was totally beat, but it was one of my favorite days thus far in Australia.  I can't believe it took me so long to take a surf lesson.  Mission successful, but don't expect that this means I am adventurous and will be jumping out of a plane any time soon. :)

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Yep, you're absolutely right about Puerto Rico. I had to pull you out of the waves that were trying to suck you under and in the process, killed my not-saltwater-proof wristwatch. Kowabunga, baby....

Ma